Metallic Epoxy Central Indiana

No Two Are Ever the Same.

Metallic epoxy floors are poured, worked by hand, and finished on site — so the floor you end up with has never existed before and never will again.

Poured and worked by hand on site. The floor you get has never existed before.

Metallic epoxy is a clear resin loaded with metallic pigment, worked by hand while it's still wet so the pigment drifts and settles. The pattern forms as it cures, which is why no two floors are the same.

What It Is

Metallic epoxy isn't a color. It's a process.

We pour a clear, high-solids resin loaded with metallic pigment, then work it by hand — spreading, feathering, and moving the pigment while it's still alive. The metallic particles suspend and drift through the resin as it self-levels, and they keep moving for hours after we walk away. What sets up is a surface with real depth: veining, cloud, and light that shifts as you move across the room.

People compare it to polished marble, to poured stone, to weather from an airplane window. What it actually looks like is nothing else in the room.

Because the pattern develops in the material rather than being printed or stamped, no two floors are alike and no floor can be reproduced — not by us, not by anyone. That's the point of it.

Why It Lasts

A floor this dramatic is easy to sell on looks alone.

Here's the part that matters five years in.

The resin is industrial, not decorative. This is 100% solids epoxy — the same chemistry specified for commercial floors — pigmented rather than watered down. It goes on thick and cures hard.

The topcoat does the work. We finish every metallic floor with a UV-stable urethane or polyaspartic topcoat. Raw metallic epoxy is beautiful and will amber in sunlight. The topcoat is what keeps the color true near a garage door or a wall of windows, and it's what takes the scratches instead of the art underneath.

Prep is still the whole game. Every slab gets diamond-ground to open its pores before anything is poured. Moisture is tested first — vapor pushing up from below is the number one cause of a coating letting go, and on a floor with this much material on it, a bond failure is not a repair, it's a redo. We test, and if a slab needs a vapor barrier it gets one.

Leggari® Certified Applicator. We're factory-trained on the specific system we install, and we don't mix manufacturers inside a floor. Primer, resin, and topcoat all come from the same engineered stack.

What's Included

Every Metallic Floor Includes All Of It.

  • Moisture testing and slab assessment
  • Full diamond grinding and profiling
  • Crack, pit, and spall repair
  • Vapor barrier where the slab requires it
  • Pigmented primer coat
  • Hand-worked metallic epoxy pour
  • UV-stable urethane or polyaspartic topcoat
  • Full cleanup, site left as found
  • Written workmanship warranty — term stated on your estimate

Where It Goes

Four Places This Belongs.

Garages and shops

The most common metallic install we do, and the one people photograph. If you've built a space around the vehicles, the floor shouldn't be the afterthought.

Basements and living space

Metallic works as finished flooring — seamless, warm underfoot compared to bare slab, no grout lines, and nothing for a spilled drink to soak into. It reads as a design choice rather than a coating.

Showrooms and retail

A floor customers stop and look at is advertising that runs 24 hours a day and never needs a media buy.

Bars, salons, studios, offices

Anywhere the interior is part of what you're selling.

Colors & Finishes

The Palette Is a Starting Point.

Metallic pigments blend, so the palette isn't a set of choices — it's a starting point. Two pigments in the same pour produce a floor neither one makes alone.

Common directions people land on:

Stone and marble — grays, whites, and charcoals with fine veining. Reads architectural, works anywhere.

Deep and dramatic — black bases with copper, bronze, or a single hard accent. The showpiece choice.

Earth — browns, ambers, and warm neutrals. Reads natural rather than metallic.

Custom color match — brand colors, a color pulled out of a countertop, a color from something you saw and photographed.

Finish runs from satin to high gloss. Gloss reflects more and shows more; satin hides foot traffic better. We'll walk you through the tradeoff on site.

We bring samples to every estimate. Metallic on a screen is not metallic in your space — the whole effect is light-dependent, and you should see it in your own room before you decide.

Design It

See the Colors Before We Pour.

Pick a look, a base, and a highlight and see how they play together. The colors you choose here are exactly the colors we use. The pattern is the part no one controls — every metallic floor moves differently as it's poured, and no two come out the same. That's the point of it.

Look

Base

Highlight

Finish

Add-Ons

Pick a look to start.

Preview of color and character, not your exact pattern.

Your selection

Pick a look to start.

Previews are generated to show how your colors work together. Your floor's pattern forms as it's poured and will be your own. Lighting and slab condition also affect the final look.

Custom Work

The Pour Is a Canvas.

The pour is a canvas, and there's more that can go into it:

Logo inlays — business logos set into the floor, common in shops and showrooms

Borders and field breaks — defining a bay, an entry, or a seating area

Multi-color designs — separated fields, transitions, or a deliberate feature running through the space

Accent walls — the same system applied vertically, tying a wall into the floor

If you have an idea, bring it to the estimate. Most of what people ask for is doable, and we'll tell you honestly when something isn't.

The Work

Start to Finish.

01 · Finished FloorWide, best light available — the anchor shot
02 · DetailCrop at 12–18 inches, showing veining and depth
03 · Mid-PourPigment actively moving in the resin
04 · Hand-WorkedHand-working the material, tool in frame
05 · ReflectionSomething recognizable mirrored in the finish
06 · In ContextFull room, furniture staged

The Process

Five Steps, No Surprises.

Free On-Site Consultation

We look at the space, test the slab, and bring samples. You'll see real metallic finishes in your own light before you commit to anything.

Written, Itemized Estimate

Prep, materials, system, topcoat, and warranty term, all broken out.

Prep Day

Grinding, repair, moisture control, primer. Unglamorous and it's most of the labor.

Pour Day

The metallic goes down and gets worked. This is the day worth watching if you're around — the floor changes for hours.

Topcoat & Cure

UV-stable topcoat, then cure time. Light foot traffic comes back quickly; vehicles wait for full cure. We'll give you exact times for your system in writing.

Straight Answers

Questions About Metallic.

What does a metallic epoxy floor cost?

Metallic is our premium system, and the most labor-intensive floor we do. A standard two-car garage typically lands between $2,500 and $4,500 depending on square footage and how much prep the slab needs. Every estimate is free and itemized.

Can I pick exactly what it will look like?

You pick the colors, the finish, and the overall direction, and we show you samples in your space. What you can't pick is the exact pattern — the veining develops in the resin as it cures, and nobody controls that down to the inch. That's the tradeoff for a floor nobody else has, and it's the reason people want it.

Is it slippery?

A gloss metallic floor is smooth, and smooth plus wet is slick — same as polished concrete or tile. If the space needs traction, we add a slip-resistant additive to the topcoat, which changes the feel underfoot without changing the look. Worth discussing for basements, entries, and anywhere near a door.

Will it yellow?

Not with the topcoat we install. Raw epoxy ambers under UV, which is why every metallic floor we do gets a UV-stable urethane or polyaspartic over it. That topcoat also absorbs the scratches that would otherwise reach the metallic layer.

How long does it take?

Most residential metallic floors are three to four days from grinding to topcoat, plus cure time before vehicles return. Metallic takes longer than flake — the resin has to be worked, and it can't be rushed without showing.

Can you do this over a floor that's already coated?

Usually, but the old coating comes off first. We grind existing epoxy, paint, sealer, and adhesive down to sound concrete. Metallic over someone else's failing coating fails with it.

Does it work in a basement?

Yes, and it's one of the best uses for it — but moisture matters more below grade. We test the slab before quoting, and if vapor drive is present the system includes a barrier. That's not an upsell; it's the difference between a floor that stays down and one that doesn't.

Let's Design a Floor Nobody Else Has

We'll bring samples, look at your space, and give you a written number. Free, itemized, no pressure.

Call (317) 677-2796 Get Estimate